Street food at Lord Sinha road,

Lord Sinha Road near Exide crossing is one of my favourite streets in Calcutta. For three years, I walked from Exide to Lord Sinha Road in the morning. It houses my college and just walking through it brings back so many memories. I adore the location of my college, with a mall right opposite ( Emami market) and another 2 minutes away ( Metro plaza) and one more just 7 minutes away (Forum) we had loads of places to hang out when we bunked classes. ( ah, 2nd year!) And if you don't like shopping and ACs, there is food! So many outlets and so many hawkers. You are literally spoiled for choice. 

Calcutta ofcourse has no competition when it comes to street food. And I am not being biased. We have so many options at such pocket friendly prices. And Lord Sinha  is a thriving destination for hawkers with street food; what with a couple of schools and colleges around and a couple of malls; add to that the numerous offices! There is bound to be business.

So today I decided it's time re-discover the road and see what has changed.  

At the mouth of the street is a tea stall, a muri wala and a guy who sells  standard dal and rice at very affordable prices. Offic-goers and labourers are alike at front of this stall. I got my first shock when I tried looking out for my favourite marwari snack shop. My friends I used to depend on that shop for lunch on many occasions. Khasta, kachori, puri and alu, samosas- yum! And guess what I saw today? The shope had been replaced by a parlour. Very disappointing; I would choose food over make up any day.

Anyway, I kept walking further down, towards all  the hawkers lined up.  First the achar wala, I bought achar ( not exactly pickle but a concoction of tangy tamarind and spices) for old times sake. ( I still have half of it in my bag) The guy remembered me! That made me smile. Right next to him was the puchka wala. ( There are 3 puchka walas on this road!) I felt like having puchka but I didn't coz I was aiming for something else. I moved on and spotted a new hawker- selling chaat and corn. Well, new guy so a no. 

There is pure veg restaurant called Ridhi Sidhi at the entrance of Emami market. It's pretty good and does great business. The 2nd puchka wala is also located outside the restaurant and gets paid by the restaurant owner. Further down the street there is a outlet famous for it's pau bhaji. It's called Mayaram's and my aunts gave me rave reviews. It's not a personal favourite since my mom makes absolutely wonderful pau bhaji but it's popular, so there you have it. Outside the shop there is a guy who sells lassi, soda sikanji ( fresh lime soda, duh!) sherbbat and masala coke. I made a mental note of coming back once I had eaten something.

Next in line was a guy selling puri chane. I have had his fare during my college time and he is good. Then I saw a guy selling veg momos. Now, I 'm a big fan of momos but no veg momos for me, thanks. After him the chilla guy was standing. If you don't know what chilla is please ask a Punjabi friend ( ok since I'm Punjabi and very nice I will tell you. It's a flat pancake made of either besan or dal, sprinkled with chopped onions, tomatoes and chillis. We often make it for breakfast. It's the north version of uttapam. ) His chillas are yum but  didn't want to spend my money on something I can easily get at home. ( By now you must be thinking I'm fussy and not easily please and why the heck am I not eating already!) 


And now my current favourite- tikki chana. This snack is very common in Delhi but a rare sight here in Calcutta where streets are lined with puchkwalas and muriwalas and roll stalls. And the guy knows me. He remembers that I had to go back disappointed one day because hw had just wrapped up. Imagine, deep fried alu tikkis ( please don't tell me to explain tikkis...) topped with tangy chole, imli, spices and onions. Delicious. Mouth watering. 

I talked to the tikki wala while he was making them. He has been selling tikkis for more than 25 years he said. and so many others like him have been standing, selling their fare for years and years. When his next customer came, he asked the hawker if the price was same. He answered in the affirmative and then added- " Prices badenge iss baar, abhki baar modi sarkar ( Ok, he didn't say that but he did say that the prices may increase. ) Anyway, after I was finished I praised his food and moved towards the shikanji wala for a drink and then walked back to Exide to go back home.  I must mention that there are three more hawkers on this street- another puchka wala, another shikanji wala and another guy who sells chana. 

If you're craving Calcutta street food and want a huge variety, you must come to Lord Sinha road. It's a busy street with loads of cars and pedestrians and ofcourse street food hawkers.

Uncovering Calcutta: Calcutta in 3 days Part 2

This is part two of my post Uncovering Calcutta: Calcutta in 3 days. Since that post was getting two long I decided to make a separate post for Day 3. If you have not read that post I would suggest that you read it before reading this. Read Part 1

In the previous post I have covered attractions and sight seeing spots in South and Central Calcutta. In Day 3 I am talking about North Kolkata. 

North Kolkata is fascinating because it still retains the old world charm. Distinguished from rest of Calcutta by  tiny lanes and old building this area comprises of Burrabazar, Bagbazar, Jorasako, Chitpur, Belghachia, Shyambazar, Sobabazar and College street.

Day 3

6. am Breakfast at Podder Court at Tiretti bazar

Head towards Podder court and ask someone for Chattawala gully. You will be surprised to see the hustle bustle at such an early hour. You will find lines and lines chinese and Tibetian vendors selling Chicken momos, pork momos, Shu Mei, Sausages, Prawn wafers, Tai Paos and so much more. By 8n am these people are done selling and wrap up and leave. Go to the same place after 8.15 and all you will see are cars and trucks, not a hint of any vendor. 

OR!

If 6.am is too early for you and/or you're a vegetarian start your day at 9 pm at

9. am Breakfast at Mitra Cafe, Shovabazar 

Famous for it's brain chop, cutlets and Afgani cuisine, this century old eatery is not something you would like to miss. 

11. am Shovabazar Raj Bari

The Rajbari  was constructed by Maharaja Nabakrishna Debthis huge ancestral house is open to visitors throughout the year.  Durga Puja, Holi, Kali Puja are celebrated with much grandeor and anyone can join in. I have experienced the grandeur during Durga Puja and all I could say was "wow".

12 pm. Jorasako Thakur Bari, Girish Park

This is the ancestral home of Rabindranath Tagore, Currently located inside  Rabindra Bharati University, walking inside feels like taking a peak into history. The original house has been restored and items used by Rabindranath and his family members are showcased. The Thakur Bari also has a museum which showcase Rabindranath's paintings,  photographs, books and personal journals.

Timings: Monday – Friday 10.00 am - 5.00 pm - Saturday 10.00 am  1.30 pm 

 

 

 

 

 

1.30 Marble Palace

A 19th century mansion built by a merchant and famous for it's marble walls and floors. It's built in the Italian Gheto art style  Since The place is still a residence, a permit must be obtained 24 hours in advance from the West Bengal Tourism Information Bureau at BBD Bag, Kolkata. Inside you will find an amazing collection of statues, fountains and other bric bacs. This place is hidden away from many and is perhaps one of the underrated sights in Kolkata

2.30 Lunch

4 pm Indian Botanical gardens, Howrah

Best known for the The Great Banyanan enormous banyan tree that is supposed to be the largest in the world ( 330 mts circumference.) You will also be able to see beautiful orchids, pine trees and palm trees. Time to get lost...

Other attractions in Howrah

• Howrah bridge- Rabindra Setu and Vidysagar Setu
• Moulik Ghat, under Howrah bridge- Asia's biggest wholesale flower market

 

 

6 pm Boi  para and Indian Coffee House, College Street

Walk through bou para( colony of books), the place to be if you're a booklover with a budget in Kolkata. The lanes are lined with stalls which sell second hand books, academic books, magazines, old editions of journals. You name it, they have it. It is the largest second-hand book market in the world and largest book market in India

College Street is also home to the Indian Coffee House in Calcutta. Notable citizens like Rabindranath and Subhas Chandra Bose have been visitors to this place. Famous personalities who have patronised this place include Satyajit Ray, Ritwik Ghatak,  Manna Dey and Amartya Sen. Many movies have said to be visualized there and many books written. Though it has degenerated, it is still frequented by young and old alike for prolonged adda sessions and discussions. Visit, to get a feel of the intellectualism. You may not like the coffee but conversation will flow. 

Other landmarks situated on college street include

• Medical College
• University of Calcutta
• Presidency University
• Hare School

 Now you know why it's called college street!

7.30 Dinner at Peter Cat, Park Street

Peter Cat has been for decades the place to dine for the foodie. There may be a waiting ( even on weekdays and non peak hours) wait for a bit ( it will be worth it)  and enter one of the city's favourite restaurants. By all means look at the menu. Infact look at the drinks menu, you will enjoy it. (I am not revealing why) But order the Chelo kebab-something you wont get anywhere else. Dont order anything else- just Chelo kebab. You will not regret your decision.

9 pm. Prinsep Ghat, Strand  road

Now that you have had your fill, head towards Strand Road and you will reach Princep Ghat. Located between Water gate and St George's Gate of Fort William and named after James Prinsep, the monument is rich in Greek and gothic inlays. You can see the Hugli river and also go for a romantic boat ride. Take a stroll along the beautified river front ( You can walk upto Babughat) or sit idle and enjoy the gentle breeze. A perfect ending to a perfect day

Other attractions nearby

• Babughat, another popular destination. You can go on a ferry ride from here
• Millenium Park, an amusement Park
• Floatel- the floating Hotel
• Fort William

Landmarks and important structures/buildings to see in Calcutta ( In no particular order)

 

• Writers Building ( seat of government )
• Raj Bhavan (Residence of the governor)
• GPO
• Lalbazar Police Head quarters
• Shahid Minar, 
• National Library
• St John's Church
• Alipore Zoo
• Aquatica
• Nicco park
• Netaji Indore Stadium
• Eden Gardens
• New Town Eco Park,
• Race Course pavillion ( largest horse race venue in India)
• Science City, EM Bypass
• BITM 
• Alipore Zoo

Three days well spent. There are ofcourse loads other landmarks and places to see in Calcutta. There will always be something you will miss. You need to keep on visiting a place to discover it better. Who knows, you may fall in love with the city of joy and keep coming back. 
 

Uncovering Calcutta: Calcutta in 3 days

While A is the expert when it comes to planning itineraries, I too am getting the hang of making them. A couple of weeks back A friend visited Calcutta and we got a chance to plan a three day Calcutta itinerary and try our hand at being tour guides.

 Day 1

9.am Breakfast at Blue Sky Cafe, Sudder Street New market Area

I have loads of memories associated with this place. A couple of blind dates and my first breakfast date with A has been spent here. They serve good quality continental fare and so are frequented by foreigners living nearby as well as tourists. I love their nutella pancakes and Shepard's pie and Irish coffee and so I tell everyone to go there!

11. am. Indian Museum

Now that your stomach is happy, visit the oldest museum in Asia. They say you need an entire day to enjoy it in thoroughly. You don't have the full day but you do have few hours and you don't want to miss fossils, coins, stones, Gandhara art, meteors and wait for it--A 4,000-year-old mummy! 

2 pm Lunch at Nizam's

Calcutta is also famous for it's rolls, so at  lunch time why don't you try the roll at Nizam's; one of Calcutta's oldest Mughlai joints. ( Founded way back in 1932) Try their Kati roll- (kati kabab rolled up in a paratha) you won't be disappointed. Their other dishes like biryani and mughlai are as mouth watering and will leave you asking for more.

 

 

3.30 New Market, Lindsey Street

New Market , Technically, it referred to an enclosed market but now the entire Lindsay Street shopping area is often known as New Market.  New Market, has survived two  fires and regular flooding, remains at the core of the shopping experience in the city.Thousands of people visit it on a daily basis. 

Famous landmarks and attractions in and around the market include

• Nahum's and sons- renowned confectioners established in 1902, frequented by the Anglo Indian community in Calcutta
• Shri ram Market, an underground market
• New Empire 
• Roxy Cinema
• Hotel Oberoi Grand ( one of the oldest  5 star properties in Calcutta.) . 

Timing: 10. 0 a.m. until 8 p.m. Monday to Friday. 10. am to 2. pm on Saturdays.

4.30. Tram ride 

Go to the Esplanade Tram depot and a take a leisurely tram ride from Esplanade to Kalighat. You will almost see most of the city in this one hour long tram ride. The tram will take you through brigade grounds, khidirpore, Rabindra Sarober and finally Kalighat.  

5.30 Kalighat and Kalighat Temple

 

Kalighat/Rashbehari Avenue crossing is the busiest area in South Kolkata. It leads to rashbehari avenue, Jawaharlal Nehru and Southern Avenue. One of the most important landmarks is the famous Kali temple, one of the 51 Shakti Peeths. The name Calcutta is said to have been derived from the word Kalighat. The image of Kali in this temple is unique. It does not follow the pattern of other Kali images in Bengal. Three huge eyes, long protruding tongue made of gold and four hands, which all are made of gold too.

I am not religious and would never personally suggest visiting temples but since it's also a historic sight, I have included it in my itinerary. Even if you don't bother to go inside (it will take ages) you can look at it from outside and click pictures of the crowd. 

6.30 Street shopping in Gariahat

The sun has set by now and Calcutta looks different. Hopefully ( depending on when you come) it's a bit cooler. Calcutta is famous for street shopping and great bargains and Gariahat is the most popular market for Bengalis residing in the south ( Non- Bengalis usually go to ac market ) You will get all kinds of things- from trinkets to shoes, from bags to kurtis, from crockery to posters. And everything at a nominal price, provided you bargain right! Gariahat is also a place you can buy souvenirs to take back. Many hawkers have  beautiful terracotta items that will remind you of your time spent in Calcutta.

8 pm Dinner at Bhojohori Manna, Dover lane Gariahat

You're in Calcutta and you need to taste Bengali cuisine. The place place to go would be Bhojohori Manna. They have exquisite variety in both veg and non veg fare. You can try cholar dal, mochar ghonto, bhetki and ilish. And if you come in Winter's do try their Nolen gurer Ice cream (lip smacking!)

 

 

Day 2

7.am  Breakfast at Balwant Singh's at Elgin Road.

Start your day early and head towards the 75 year old dhaba right beside Elgin road Gurudwara. It
opens as early as 7 am and stays opens right till midnight. Famous for their club kachori and doodh cola (no other place will offer you this drink but it's pretty popular in Punju households. ) and tea, this eatery is nearly never empty. I recammned this dhaba for breakfast not just because no one else is open but because though simple and unassuming the food is really tasty and filling. And if you're a tea lover you will love it there. Generations have been fans of this place- my grand dad, my dad and uncles and now A and me.

Book fair 2014 and some nostalgia

Book fair has lost it's charm for me. I came here for some work but then my friends were late so I entered and walked around to see if I could get back my years and years of stored up nostalgia. I didn't. I didn't feel anything. I don't feel excitement at seeing so many stalls; I don't feel any kind of joy that I have felt earlier. 

Today. there are so many more avenues for me to buy books. There's flipkart. And family friends with bookstores who give you discount throughout the year. And the annual British Council sale where you get books dirt cheap, literally. The book fair does not offer me something new, something different.

The premises are huge, ofcourse. It's held at Milan Mela. Which is bang opposite science city and ITC sonar bangla Hotel. So, pretty accessible location. A huge crowd of people are here. It's a big thing here; not as big as Durga Puja but it's still a pretty big deal in Calcutta. It's also become a touristy picnic-y thing to do. And people in Calcutta are generally book lovers. Well, most bongs are (sorry for the stereotyping ) 

Quest Mall, Park Circus

On Saturday, I visited the newly opened Quest mall for the first time. It is apparently  the second largest shopping mall in Eastern India. It is also the first luxury mall of  Kolkata and also the whole of East India and the largest of its kind in India.

 While it almost gives you the feel of being in Mumbai's Phoenix it is not as spectacular as it looks like from outside. Most of the high end brands like Breitling, Emporio and Burburry are not open yet. However, the brands that are open include Lifestyle (not previously seen in Kolkata), Vera Moda, W, Wills Lifestyle, Earthwear.


Once the luxury brands are inaugurated Quest will become the hub for the elite. 

The Foodcourt has Mexican joint Chili's, which has in a very short time become a popular hang out. A slight pocket pinch is expected  ( Rs 1500 for two) which is not bad for a novelty restaurant.  Other than that the foodcourt has KFC, CCD, a chinese food counter among the usual fare. 

They have Inox, which has 6 screens. Though for me that is not really a bonus living in the south. But yes, definitely more options. 

The Spencer's  is pretty huge but they don't have an alcohol section, just yet. They may have one soon though. And I had expected them to have a few novelty sections not available at the other Spencers. 

I am not much of a mall person or much of a shopping person so having a luxury mall in Kolkata is not that big a deal for me. I would go back and hang out there if I absolutely had no place to meet up with a friend AND if I wanted to eat at Chili's.