Uncovering Calcutta: Calcutta in 3 days Part 2

This is part two of my post Uncovering Calcutta: Calcutta in 3 days. Since that post was getting two long I decided to make a separate post for Day 3. If you have not read that post I would suggest that you read it before reading this. Read Part 1

In the previous post I have covered attractions and sight seeing spots in South and Central Calcutta. In Day 3 I am talking about North Kolkata. 

North Kolkata is fascinating because it still retains the old world charm. Distinguished from rest of Calcutta by  tiny lanes and old building this area comprises of Burrabazar, Bagbazar, Jorasako, Chitpur, Belghachia, Shyambazar, Sobabazar and College street.

Day 3

6. am Breakfast at Podder Court at Tiretti bazar

Head towards Podder court and ask someone for Chattawala gully. You will be surprised to see the hustle bustle at such an early hour. You will find lines and lines chinese and Tibetian vendors selling Chicken momos, pork momos, Shu Mei, Sausages, Prawn wafers, Tai Paos and so much more. By 8n am these people are done selling and wrap up and leave. Go to the same place after 8.15 and all you will see are cars and trucks, not a hint of any vendor. 

OR!

If 6.am is too early for you and/or you're a vegetarian start your day at 9 pm at

9. am Breakfast at Mitra Cafe, Shovabazar 

Famous for it's brain chop, cutlets and Afgani cuisine, this century old eatery is not something you would like to miss. 

11. am Shovabazar Raj Bari

The Rajbari  was constructed by Maharaja Nabakrishna Debthis huge ancestral house is open to visitors throughout the year.  Durga Puja, Holi, Kali Puja are celebrated with much grandeor and anyone can join in. I have experienced the grandeur during Durga Puja and all I could say was "wow".

12 pm. Jorasako Thakur Bari, Girish Park

This is the ancestral home of Rabindranath Tagore, Currently located inside  Rabindra Bharati University, walking inside feels like taking a peak into history. The original house has been restored and items used by Rabindranath and his family members are showcased. The Thakur Bari also has a museum which showcase Rabindranath's paintings,  photographs, books and personal journals.

Timings: Monday – Friday 10.00 am - 5.00 pm - Saturday 10.00 am  1.30 pm 

 

 

 

 

 

1.30 Marble Palace

A 19th century mansion built by a merchant and famous for it's marble walls and floors. It's built in the Italian Gheto art style  Since The place is still a residence, a permit must be obtained 24 hours in advance from the West Bengal Tourism Information Bureau at BBD Bag, Kolkata. Inside you will find an amazing collection of statues, fountains and other bric bacs. This place is hidden away from many and is perhaps one of the underrated sights in Kolkata

2.30 Lunch

4 pm Indian Botanical gardens, Howrah

Best known for the The Great Banyanan enormous banyan tree that is supposed to be the largest in the world ( 330 mts circumference.) You will also be able to see beautiful orchids, pine trees and palm trees. Time to get lost...

Other attractions in Howrah

• Howrah bridge- Rabindra Setu and Vidysagar Setu
• Moulik Ghat, under Howrah bridge- Asia's biggest wholesale flower market

 

 

6 pm Boi  para and Indian Coffee House, College Street

Walk through bou para( colony of books), the place to be if you're a booklover with a budget in Kolkata. The lanes are lined with stalls which sell second hand books, academic books, magazines, old editions of journals. You name it, they have it. It is the largest second-hand book market in the world and largest book market in India

College Street is also home to the Indian Coffee House in Calcutta. Notable citizens like Rabindranath and Subhas Chandra Bose have been visitors to this place. Famous personalities who have patronised this place include Satyajit Ray, Ritwik Ghatak,  Manna Dey and Amartya Sen. Many movies have said to be visualized there and many books written. Though it has degenerated, it is still frequented by young and old alike for prolonged adda sessions and discussions. Visit, to get a feel of the intellectualism. You may not like the coffee but conversation will flow. 

Other landmarks situated on college street include

• Medical College
• University of Calcutta
• Presidency University
• Hare School

 Now you know why it's called college street!

7.30 Dinner at Peter Cat, Park Street

Peter Cat has been for decades the place to dine for the foodie. There may be a waiting ( even on weekdays and non peak hours) wait for a bit ( it will be worth it)  and enter one of the city's favourite restaurants. By all means look at the menu. Infact look at the drinks menu, you will enjoy it. (I am not revealing why) But order the Chelo kebab-something you wont get anywhere else. Dont order anything else- just Chelo kebab. You will not regret your decision.

9 pm. Prinsep Ghat, Strand  road

Now that you have had your fill, head towards Strand Road and you will reach Princep Ghat. Located between Water gate and St George's Gate of Fort William and named after James Prinsep, the monument is rich in Greek and gothic inlays. You can see the Hugli river and also go for a romantic boat ride. Take a stroll along the beautified river front ( You can walk upto Babughat) or sit idle and enjoy the gentle breeze. A perfect ending to a perfect day

Other attractions nearby

• Babughat, another popular destination. You can go on a ferry ride from here
• Millenium Park, an amusement Park
• Floatel- the floating Hotel
• Fort William

Landmarks and important structures/buildings to see in Calcutta ( In no particular order)

 

• Writers Building ( seat of government )
• Raj Bhavan (Residence of the governor)
• GPO
• Lalbazar Police Head quarters
• Shahid Minar, 
• National Library
• St John's Church
• Alipore Zoo
• Aquatica
• Nicco park
• Netaji Indore Stadium
• Eden Gardens
• New Town Eco Park,
• Race Course pavillion ( largest horse race venue in India)
• Science City, EM Bypass
• BITM 
• Alipore Zoo

Three days well spent. There are ofcourse loads other landmarks and places to see in Calcutta. There will always be something you will miss. You need to keep on visiting a place to discover it better. Who knows, you may fall in love with the city of joy and keep coming back. 
 

Uncovering Calcutta: Calcutta in 3 days

While A is the expert when it comes to planning itineraries, I too am getting the hang of making them. A couple of weeks back A friend visited Calcutta and we got a chance to plan a three day Calcutta itinerary and try our hand at being tour guides.

 Day 1

9.am Breakfast at Blue Sky Cafe, Sudder Street New market Area

I have loads of memories associated with this place. A couple of blind dates and my first breakfast date with A has been spent here. They serve good quality continental fare and so are frequented by foreigners living nearby as well as tourists. I love their nutella pancakes and Shepard's pie and Irish coffee and so I tell everyone to go there!

11. am. Indian Museum

Now that your stomach is happy, visit the oldest museum in Asia. They say you need an entire day to enjoy it in thoroughly. You don't have the full day but you do have few hours and you don't want to miss fossils, coins, stones, Gandhara art, meteors and wait for it--A 4,000-year-old mummy! 

2 pm Lunch at Nizam's

Calcutta is also famous for it's rolls, so at  lunch time why don't you try the roll at Nizam's; one of Calcutta's oldest Mughlai joints. ( Founded way back in 1932) Try their Kati roll- (kati kabab rolled up in a paratha) you won't be disappointed. Their other dishes like biryani and mughlai are as mouth watering and will leave you asking for more.

 

 

3.30 New Market, Lindsey Street

New Market , Technically, it referred to an enclosed market but now the entire Lindsay Street shopping area is often known as New Market.  New Market, has survived two  fires and regular flooding, remains at the core of the shopping experience in the city.Thousands of people visit it on a daily basis. 

Famous landmarks and attractions in and around the market include

• Nahum's and sons- renowned confectioners established in 1902, frequented by the Anglo Indian community in Calcutta
• Shri ram Market, an underground market
• New Empire 
• Roxy Cinema
• Hotel Oberoi Grand ( one of the oldest  5 star properties in Calcutta.) . 

Timing: 10. 0 a.m. until 8 p.m. Monday to Friday. 10. am to 2. pm on Saturdays.

4.30. Tram ride 

Go to the Esplanade Tram depot and a take a leisurely tram ride from Esplanade to Kalighat. You will almost see most of the city in this one hour long tram ride. The tram will take you through brigade grounds, khidirpore, Rabindra Sarober and finally Kalighat.  

5.30 Kalighat and Kalighat Temple

 

Kalighat/Rashbehari Avenue crossing is the busiest area in South Kolkata. It leads to rashbehari avenue, Jawaharlal Nehru and Southern Avenue. One of the most important landmarks is the famous Kali temple, one of the 51 Shakti Peeths. The name Calcutta is said to have been derived from the word Kalighat. The image of Kali in this temple is unique. It does not follow the pattern of other Kali images in Bengal. Three huge eyes, long protruding tongue made of gold and four hands, which all are made of gold too.

I am not religious and would never personally suggest visiting temples but since it's also a historic sight, I have included it in my itinerary. Even if you don't bother to go inside (it will take ages) you can look at it from outside and click pictures of the crowd. 

6.30 Street shopping in Gariahat

The sun has set by now and Calcutta looks different. Hopefully ( depending on when you come) it's a bit cooler. Calcutta is famous for street shopping and great bargains and Gariahat is the most popular market for Bengalis residing in the south ( Non- Bengalis usually go to ac market ) You will get all kinds of things- from trinkets to shoes, from bags to kurtis, from crockery to posters. And everything at a nominal price, provided you bargain right! Gariahat is also a place you can buy souvenirs to take back. Many hawkers have  beautiful terracotta items that will remind you of your time spent in Calcutta.

8 pm Dinner at Bhojohori Manna, Dover lane Gariahat

You're in Calcutta and you need to taste Bengali cuisine. The place place to go would be Bhojohori Manna. They have exquisite variety in both veg and non veg fare. You can try cholar dal, mochar ghonto, bhetki and ilish. And if you come in Winter's do try their Nolen gurer Ice cream (lip smacking!)

 

 

Day 2

7.am  Breakfast at Balwant Singh's at Elgin Road.

Start your day early and head towards the 75 year old dhaba right beside Elgin road Gurudwara. It
opens as early as 7 am and stays opens right till midnight. Famous for their club kachori and doodh cola (no other place will offer you this drink but it's pretty popular in Punju households. ) and tea, this eatery is nearly never empty. I recammned this dhaba for breakfast not just because no one else is open but because though simple and unassuming the food is really tasty and filling. And if you're a tea lover you will love it there. Generations have been fans of this place- my grand dad, my dad and uncles and now A and me.

My guilt is ready

My guilt is coiled up inside me. 
Like a cobra
ready to pounce.

Like a dormant volcano
ready to explode. 

Like a saw 
that cuts through your hand;
accidentally. . 

Bucket list of places I want to go to

I have many lists but I think the list I keep going back to is my bucket list of places I want to see. Some are in India, most abroad. It's a small list; just 25 and I hope I keep adding to it.

1. Greece 

I am pretty eager to go to Greece. It is after all my dream country. There was a time when I wanted to live there for atleast 6 months. I looked up ways to earn, job opening and even made travel plans.  I still would love to do do that, but don't know if it will be possible. But Greece is a place I would like to visit again and again, through out my lifetime. ( And I don't know what started first, my obsession with Greek myths or my desire to go to Greece.)

2. Coorg

 

Coorg is not that popular as a tourist destination but I still want to visit. We were supposed to visit for a wedding but our plans got cancelled at the last minute. Coorg has forts, and ruins; and also coffee and elaichi plantations.

3. Silvassa

I didn't know much about Silvassa until a saw someone's fb cover pic a year back. It's a small town Dadra and Nagar Haveli which is wedged between Maharashtra and Gujarat. It's a few hours drive from Mumbai. It's known for it's scenic beauty. beaches and water sports (One site mentioned Jet skiing I would so love to try that!). There you have it-just say the word 'beach' and I am in. 

and the  capital of the Indian Union Territory of

 

4. Kerela: 

It's supposed to be "God's own country and I there are so many reasons to agree. I mean, just google Kerela! It's beautiful; coconut trees, beaches and rivers. Can't think of a reason no to go.

   

 

 

5. Italy

What can I say about Italy? So much has been already said. I can just utter a few words. Pizza. Italian men and their accents *drool*. Tuscany. Eat, Pray, Love

 

 

 

 

6. Andaman (white beach)

Because sometimes you feel overwhelmed

My life will change after 3 and a half months. I am getting married ( Surprise?) Most 40+ people are excited when they get to know and ask me how I feel. My peers on the other hand were surprised. 

The decision to get married was mine. So obviously, in the beginning I was pretty excited. Then came the cold feet part. ( Which I guess, happens to everyone. ) I had a lot on my mind. Firstly I was scared of the married tag. I mean, married! That sounds so responsible and boring. That scared the shit out of me. Secondly, I felt that A was feeling pressurized about getting married. As if I was unconsciously or consciously forcing him to. Thirdly, the fact that most of my cousins married in their late twenties and I feel as if I am marrying pretty darn early. 

 

I am not as pretty and won't ever look as graceful as she did if I ever do try to run

But what bugged me the most is my lack of financial independence. I always imagined that I would be earning ( and earning well) before I get married. That would have been ideal. (Sadly, nothing is ideal.) Life did not go as planned and I started my own venture 4 months back and I still need one more year to be able to actually "earn" and become sustainable. 

And A has always said that he wanted to marry a person who had her own income. I don't know if the fact that I don't have one as of now, is disappointing to him. I didn't ask, too afraid of what the answer might be. It's something he really wanted and even though he is very very supportive of what I am doing (Believe me, I am overwhelmed and very grateful for his support.) I sometimes feel that this is something which bugs him too.

I have been having bouts of cold feet for the last 2 months. I have been doubting my own ability and my readiness to be married. Maybe because I friend of ours broke of her own engagement just a month before her D-day. Maybe because atleast 4 of my cousins ( of my very large extended family) have separated/divorced just a few years after marriage. Or maybe it's an irrational stupid fear that everyone gets before getting married. 

I am mostly happy about getting married.  When two people are in a committed relationship it makes sense for them to "start their lives together" And marriage is the conventional, accepted way to do it. I may not be overtly excited but I am certainly happy. ( Sometimes I do feel excited and have those "can't wait" moments but ofcourse I won't show it. )

But sometimes these thought linger. Sometimes I want to get away from it all. The discussions, the preparations, the "how are you feeling?" questions; everything that suggests that in a few more months I'll be married.

The worst part is that I know I will keep having these bouts of dread till it actually happens. No amount of reassurance can make it go away. Even I know that my fear of the unknown is irrational. That I can get paranoid when there is no reason to be. And yet I will keep speculating. Maybe writing about it will help. ( It usually does.) 

How can I explain that I am happy and yet I am shit scared. How can I explain that I can't wait to get married and yet sometimes wish that it was further away. How can I explain that I wish that I am not the only one who is feeling this way and that I wish that A too gets those moments. 

I am feeling pretty sentimental at this moment. This was supposed to be a funny post where I would poke fun at my cold feet, share an anecdote or two about the preparations. Pcch. I want a hug. I want someone to say that they get it.

I think I should end my rant, here.